Food chains that specialize in chicken wings generally have a limited repertoire. You order wings with various degrees of spice and heat (habanero sauce at one end, ketchup-like at the other), different coatings (barbeque, teriyaki) or rubs (jerk, garlic) and the same dips – ranch or blue cheese with a stalk of celery. They are not without character, unlike chicken fingers that set the standard for bland, but it’s hard to find anything interesting about [...]
One of the delights of late tomato season in the south is fresh marinara sauce. Every batch has its own personality, varying with the type of tomatoes you use, their ripeness, how they are prepared. Here are some things to know that will make cooking marinara simple. Boil some water and blanch whole tomatoes for 30 seconds or so, transfer to the sink and core with a paring knife. The peel will fall off. Then, [...]
Among the many virtues of the movie Julie & Julia is the reverence paid to great cookbooks in a cook’s life and development. Great chefs share their best work and we get to enjoy the benefits. Last weekend, my guide was the wonderful French chef Daniel Boulud with his gratin forestier – a potato gratin cooked with mushrooms. I have long been a fan of potato gratins, particularly the gratin dauphinois variety that is simply [...]
What does eggplant have in common with tofu, polenta, rice and, to some extent, chicken? It’s a neutral canvas on which a cook can paint different flavors and tastes. If you make eggplant stacks, for example, you can easily experiment with flavors and textures by combining whatever you have in the refrigerator that’s compatible. And, there’s a good chance it will be good. To make stacks, slice a globe eggplant or two in rounds, about [...]
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