Monthly Archives: September 2009

A different chicken wing

Food chains that specialize in chicken wings generally have a limited repertoire. You order wings with various degrees of spice and heat (habanero sauce at one end, ketchup-like at the other), different coatings (barbeque, teriyaki) or rubs (jerk, garlic) and

Posted in On ingredients


One of the delights of late tomato season in the south is fresh marinara sauce. Every batch has its own personality, varying with the type of tomatoes you use, their ripeness, how they are prepared. Here are some things to

Posted in Uncategorized

Gratin Forestier

Among the many virtues of the movie Julie & Julia is the reverence paid to great cookbooks in a cook’s life and development. Great chefs share their best work and we get to enjoy the benefits. Last weekend, my guide

Posted in Uncategorized

Eggplant Stacks

What does eggplant have in common with tofu, polenta, rice and, to some extent, chicken? It’s a neutral canvas on which a cook can paint different flavors and tastes. If you make eggplant stacks, for example, you can easily experiment

Posted in Uncategorized
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