Oct 292009
 
In praise of gumbo

I’ve been a fan of Paul Prudhomme since he opened K-Pauls on Chartres Street in New Orleans, published his first cookbook, and started the almost total depopulation of the lowly (until-then) redfish in the Gulf of Mexico – his most famous early recipe was blackened redfish. Paul cooked what he knew, what he had learned watching his mother and relatives cook, and turned it into great food. I particularly love his gumbo. There are scores, [...]

 Posted by at 10:51 pm
Oct 132009
 
Eating warm

If modern Americans were close to farms, as our grandparents were, we would now be changing our diets to accommodate the new season. Not because we wanted to necessarily, but because that would be all we would have to eat. Local food was all there was. Importing oranges or strawberries or tomatoes from California or Latin America was just too expensive. And factory food, except for canned vegetables and meats, wasn’t so prevalent. That meant [...]

 Posted by at 4:34 pm
Oct 062009
 

There’s a man in our downtown park who feeds birds and squirrels. He’s good at it. Smaller birds sit on his shoulder. Ducks gather round his legs. Squirrels nibble out of his hand. There is something simply right about the act of feeding. All mothers know this. So do cooks. I get immense satisfaction watching people eat food I have spent some time, thought and effort in putting together. And, it rarely matters if the [...]

 Posted by at 1:50 pm